But Lisbon's biggest attraction is the city itself, a city that is not spruced up for the tourist to see, but an authentic place that stands out in such an increasingly homogeneous world. it boasts a range of must-see sights, its biggest pleasures are its streetlife and setting, admired from a pavement cafe, from the top of a hilltop miradouro, or simply by wandering around the atmospheric old quarters.
Alfama - The oldest part of Lisbon, the Alfama quarter sprawls down the hillside from below the Castelo de Sao Jorge, retaining much of the traditional colour and atmosphere from the days when it was the ancient seat of the Saracens. Along the narrow cobblestone alleyways are taverns and street markets, interspersed with close-packed houses still occupied by stevedores, fishmongers and sailors. At the edge of the Alfama, Lisbon's renowned flea market, the Feira da Ladra, is held in the Campo de Santa Clara every Tuesday and Saturday. The Alfama is also full of historic buildings and churches, which are well worth exploring.
Jardim Botânico (Botanical Garden) -- Connected with the National Costume Museum is the Parque do Monteiro-Mor, Largo Julio de Castilho, Lumiar. It's one of Lisbon's most beautiful botanical gardens. A restaurant (tel. 21/758-58-52; www.museudotraje-ipmuseus.pt) lies on the park grounds. The park is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10am to 6pm. Admission is 1.50€ ($1.90) and free for children under 14. It's free to all Sunday until 2pm. A combination ticket with the National Costume Museum tel. 21/759-03-18 costs 3€ ($3.75) for adults and 1.50€ ($1.90) for students, teachers and children under 14. Bus: 1, 3, 7, or 36. Metro: Luminar.
Centro de Arte Moderna: Around the corner from the entrance to the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum, the Center of Modern Art is Lisbon's first major permanent exhibition center of modern Portuguese art. The center shares parklike grounds with the Gulbenkian Foundation and was, like the Gulbenkian Museum, a legacy of the late Armenian oil magnate.
Tower of Belém - The tower was intended to provide strategic defence to the River Tagus during Portugal’s naval ascendancy in the 16th century. Symbolically, it was also the last sight seen by seafarers leaving the city. The tower has a famous 18th-century statue of Virgin and Child, Our Lady of Safe Homecoming, built into the terrace of the bastion, as well as sentry posts on each corner. Access to the the interesting museum is over a gangway; there is also a drawbridge and bulwark, as well as a terrace that offers superb views across the river and of the western part of Lisbon.
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